The Trends: Skincare 2015

Like it or not, cosmetics is a trend-propelled industry (exhibit A, Kendall Jenner is the face of Estee Lauder); staying ahead of the hype machine is daunting, yet necessary to make smart, more-informed-less-influenced purchasing decisions. Here are my top skincare trends for 2015 that make sense for consumers, not companies.

Powder Cleansers

Cleansers really came into their own in 2014, and that will only continue into 2015. Powder cleansers aren't exactly new, but never have so many been on the market in the West. Josie Maran, Peter Thomas Roth, Murad, Tatcha, E.L.F., Boscia, and NUDE all have powder cleansers within their lines - many of these cleansers were launched in mid-late 2014/early 2015. Powder cleansers are companies answer to consumer desires for less abrasive scrubs; in addition to offering a customizable exfoliation, many powder cleansers possess enzymatic ingredients, thus providing a physical and chemical exfoliation.

Facial Oils

Again, facial oils are hardly cutting-edge, but the cosmetic counters have never been so saturated in with oils. Previously relegated as a hippie, green alternative to moisturizers/serums, oils were overlooked prior to our current green wave (by current I mean ongoing since the last 90's). These days, consumers want high performing naturals and oils check those boxes - they're mainly natural, full of skin loving ingredients, and generally well-tolerated by even the most sensitive of skins. My current favorite is Sunday Riley's Luna Sleeping Night Oil, which is a retinoid oil (the first to my knowledge, though I'm probably wrong here).

Korean Beauty

For the last several years, South Korea has been making huge waves in the beauty industry. You can thank them for popularizing BB (CC, DD, EE, etc) creams, sheet masks, and sleeping masks to name a few. In 2015, watch out for cushion foundations - foundations that come in a compact packaging, with the actual foundation saturated onto a 'cushion' - Lancome already has one, which is unsurprising considering that makeup artist extraordinaire Lisa Eldridge is Lancome's new makeup creative director (check out her Korean inspired makeup tutorial here). Also watch for Korean skincare formulations and technologies; ingredients like bee venom, snail secretions, and starfish extract are already creeping into the Western market.

What are your top 2015 skincare trends? Let me know in the comments!

What's New: MAKE UP FOR EVER STEP1 Skin EQUALIZER

Primers aren't exactly new, nor are new primer launches particularly extra-ordinary. What is rare, however, is a brand launching ten (TEN! 10! DIX!) primers at once; allow me a moment to die, resurrect myself, and introduce you to MAKE UP FOR EVER's Step1 Skin Equalizer.

2014 Beauty Favorites: Part I - Skincare

Usually I'm an out with the old, in with the new kinda guy, but occasionally I find a product/person/Trader Joe's snack worth holding on to; worth recommending, even! Without further ado, here's the best bits of 2014 according to your's truly.

Cleanser

2014, the year of the oil cleanse. Yes, yes, I know the OCM (oil cleansing method) has been around forEVER, but brands didn't and in 2014 they finally realised that perhaps their eccentric aunt with the penchant for shopping bags and olive oil on ALL OF THE THINGS was, well, maybe onto something. DHC's Deep Cleansing Oil has long been a favorite, and for good reason. It's basic, yet gentle and incredibly effective. Clinique's Take the Day Off Cleansing Balm is my go-to for a facial message and is endorsed by the one and only Caroline Hirons. For a more traditional cleanse, I adore Kate Somerville's Detox Daily Cleanser. Though aimed at blemish-prone skin, Detox Daily is a solid cleanser for all but the most dry and sensitive.

Toner

Toner is important, people! Seriously, nine times out of ten when someone comes to me for advice and they've got the "I've tried it all" pin, toner is what they're missing. Toners have such wonderful benefits and have come sooooooo far. Peter Thomas Roth's Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads are wonderful for congested, stressed skin, though are perhaps a bit much for sensitive skin. Clarins Gentle Exfoliator Brightening Toner is wonderful and a true HG product (if you're adverse to fragrance, just avoid Clarins all together).

Serum

Many still aren't sold on serum, which is a pity because right now the technology in those buggers is extraordinary and they're only getting better. What an exciting time to be alive! Unlike my east Asian brothers and sisters, I haven't the time/patience/dedication for a multi-serum routine, so I need my serums to really be jacks of all trades. Clarins Double Serum relaunched in 2013 and has been massively successful, despite a very vocal backlash regarding one of the star ingredients, Paraffinum Liquidum, aka mineral oil. I've no issues with mineral oil in skincare, and Clarins newest reformulation of Double Serum is, in my opinion, one of the best catchall serums on the market. I also love Kate Somerville's Total Vitamin Serum, but as it has since been discontinued, I apologize for dangling that in front of your face.

2014 Beauty Favorites: Part II - Makeup

In part two of my 2014 beauty favorites (part one here), I'll focus specifically on makeup favorites.

Primer

Primer and I were not fast friends - I've only recently stumbled across one I can take seriously; Smashbox's Hydrating Primer is, in my book, one of the better primers on the market and one I consistently recommend to clients with ALL skin types, not just dry skin. The formula is lightweight, oil-free, and definitely adds something to the overall makeup look. I'm still not entirely sold on primers, but this guy is definitely a diamond in the rough.

Foundation

I love foundation, I cannot lie. Being my most loved makeup product, it is also the category I most heavily scrutinize. For a foundation to impress me, it has to be the real deal - coverage, longevity, true-to-skin shades, and general kickass-ness. (Just a quick aside, I have oily skin prone to breakouts if I'm not kind to it, NW 15-20). My favorite foundation for my skin (I'll explain) is Trish McEvoy's Even Skin Liquid Foundation. This stuff gives me life. It's a thin, watery formulation à la Chanel's Vitalumière Aqua, with a sheer to medium buildable coverage that never looks overdone - seriously, I think you could use the entire bottle and still not look like a drag queen (no tea no shade). That said, the shade range leaves a lot to be desired, though if you're a rich old white woman (McEvoy's target audience) you should be able to find match. If you're unable to find a shade match in Even Skin, I will never not recommend NARS Sheer Glow and Sheer Matte foundations. Don't let the name mislead you, there's nothing particularly sheer about either formulation, nor is Sheer Glow particularly glowy or Sheer Matte particularly matte. Questionable naming aside, both formulas provide long lasting coverage and the shade range is off the chain.

The Cleanse: Clinique Take the Day Off Cleansing Balm

Adding to my ongoing series of ongoing series', The Cleanse is a collection of my favorite cleansers.

Cleanser are, in my routinely humbled opinion, the most important step in a skin care regimen. While moisturizers, serums, toners, spot treatments, eye creams (the list goes on) might, by nature of their application and ingredients, do "more" for the skin, cleansers allow these products to function and their intended processes to occur. Further, a good cleanser will leave your skins' defense intact, ensuring optimal protection against bacteria and the likes. Cleansers really are the foundation upon which any effective routine are built; and yes, I do mean cleansers plural, because no, you cannot rely on only one.

As I am sure you already know, balm cleansers are all the rage, though they're not exactly new. Clinique's Take the Day Off Cleansing Balm is a truly beautiful product. It does exactly as it states, contains few (if any) problematic ingredients, has a great price point ($28.50 for 3.8 fl oz/ 125 ml), has a wonderfully balmy texture, and is housed in a relatively chic package. Best for normal to very dry skin types, this balm becomes an oil upon contact with the skin, spreading easily and dissolving  makeup in seconds. I would advise a second cleanse for most skin types, unless you're very dry - as with most balms, removing all traces with water alone is rather difficult. For the record, I have very oily skin and can still use this without concern.

Have you tried any cleansing balms yet?

The Compilation: Paula's Choice

The Compilation is an ongoing series of websites, blogs, vlogs, books, and other resources that I have found helpful, informative, innovative, or just awesome in the realm of cosmetics.

Paula Begoun (or the "Cosmetics Cop" if you want to be that guy) isn't exactly a new name in the beauty industry. As a best selling author, (ex)radio and television personality, and founder of a successful cosmetics brand, Begoun is something of a someone. Begoun first rose to fame because of her belief that cosmetic formulations should be based on peer reviewed research, i.e., subject to the microscopes of the 'academic' community (I'm using that term very broadly). A huge portion of cosmetic research is done in house, meaning that the researchers are on a brand's (L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, Shiseido, etc) payroll; further, their research is seldom released to the public. This could be problematic for numerous reasons, most obviously scientific integrity.

Best Brushes: Marc Jacobs Beauty The Bronze Bronzer Brush

Essentially, everything I said in my previous post applies to this big beauty. The Bronze is an amazing brush with an even more amazing price tag. $78 USD of your hard earned cash will make you the proud owner of this powder/bronzer/illuminator brush which, again, is pretty hefty for a synthetic hair brush.

I should also note that this can be a pain to clean, especially if using a lathering cleanser. The hairs are so densely packed that getting all the cleanser out (product, too) can be a labour intensive process. This is the sort of brush that you want to spot clean, spot clean often. You've been warned!